Instead, we had to remove the pads from the rear and finish with a single brake. We’ve had this happen on an older set of brakes before, and something like this would have let us finish the ride with both brakes working. Might be of interest to people out on multi-day or longer bikepacking adventures where having some measure of control in case their lines get contaminated and either lose power or get pumped. That said, if, for some reason, your brakes end up pumping up and force the pads into contact with the wheel and make it unrideable while you’re out on a ride, this offers a safety net. Our goal here is simply to cover all the latest and most interesting cycling products, tech, components and bikes and present the information so you can make your own decisions.Īs stated in the article, probably the biggest benefit to this is using it as a form of pad contact adjust, and admittedly it’s a very expensive way to go about getting it. Should you buy it? Or even like it? That’s entirely up to you. Why do we cover something like this? Because it’s interesting. Hello everyone, and as always, thanks for reading. From the looks of it, this one replaces the prior model with the red adjustment knob as that one’s showing as both discounted and out of stock. ![]() Retail is $179, available now on their website. They say the boost range is up to 180% of the original power. The part is made out of aluminum and steel and works with Shimano, SRAM, Magura, Tektro, Formula (2nd edition only) and Hope (Pro edition only) brakes. So, if you (for some strange reason) like the brake lever to move without actually doing anything, then find one (like the Shimano XTR levers shown here) that offers Free Stroke adjustment. By moving it farther from the master cylinder’s port, it lets you pull more lever before it closes the circuit and starts pushing fluid down the hose toward the caliper. If it’s adding fluid, the pads will be pushed closer to the brake rotor, and vice versa.įree Stroke, which some higher end brake levers have, simply adjusts the valve’s closure point within the lever’s master cylinder. By adjusting the size of its auxiliary reservoir, it’s either adding or subtracting fluid from the actual brake hose. Remember when you brakes were cable actuated and you could dial in that barrel adjuster to move the pads closer to or further from the rim or rotor? That’s what the OutBraker Power Booster does. ![]() What’s the difference between Pad Contact and Free Stroke?
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